Ángel Rivas

A joy... an italian one

By Angel Rivas - mayo 22, 2020

It is perfectly clear to notice the usual italian food you can find anywhere in this world. Spaghetti bolognese, lasagna, pizza and sometimes bruschetta. But are you sure this is the real thing in Italy?

Usually the previous dishes can be found in any “italian” restaurant, but the real cuisine is not that easy to reproduce, unless you get to Sartoria, located in the infamous Roma neighborhood in Mexico City.

Can you imagine a cauliflower milanese, a pasta with a chlorophille sauce or a selection of not so common italian cheeses along with not the typical local ingredients?

This little place with a recognizable white arch as ceiling has a menu that reminds you of those forgotten italian products made in very elegant dishes that can be eaten with your eyes.

It is not the “mangia, until you are stuffed” concept, it is plates served with reasonable portions and a lot of freshness in the preparation. The pastas are home made and you can feel in the palate that some hours behind were only flour and eggs. The flavors of all the ingredients are there, it is not like a “Find Wally” dish where you get confused of so many things in it. This is where pastas are main courses.

I was told risotto was as well a masterpiece and some of the fish options were cooked pretty well… I was enjoying dinner not looking to taste everything.

There are some selections for the day, maybe for the week, so you can’t get bored if you get in love with the fresh home made style of this restaurant.

The wine menu are only italian, need more? You can select some classic prosecco or Piamonte labels as well as some Puglian or Campanian wines that aren’t so known in Mexico.

In the sweet side, the pannacotta texture was excellent, neither a bland jelly nor a thickened one. Marketing resources appear here, a trip from Sicily to Chiapas is a dessert that combines cheese, capers, dark crumbles, citrus ice cream among other flavors you can taste only after your order it.

Marco Carboni is the head master of the recipes and you can find a hint of Osteria Francescana still there, because this boy had plenty of time learning from Massimo Bottura chef and his team.

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Food and wine journalist with two decades of experience. Editor and reporter at Reforma newspaper in Mexico and current collaborator in different media. Awarded with the Best Journalism Career 2011 by Vatel Club Mexico.